Re-entering daylight five minutes later, the sky is a light blue and the fields are white with recent snow. Ten years ago, the sky was more likely to be a smoggy brown-gray at this time of year, stained by pollution from industry and heating. We are nearing Hebei Province, long a home for coal plants, steel mills and smoke-belching factories that neighboring Beijing no longer wanted.
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Now, though, the province is trying to reduce polluting industry, and the rail line is set with scenes from China’s clean-energy future. Dozens of wind-power turbines have been erected near the Guanting Reservoir, which provided Beijing with drinking water until farm and industrial pollution left it undrinkable. Solar panels blanket the lower stretches of nearby hillsides.
China promised a “green” Olympics, and the power companies fulfilling that vow have made sure that travelers can see their efforts in action from the train window.
Now on the flattest stretch of the journey, the train accelerates: 207, then 209 and then 211 miles an hour, the announcement board at the front of the carriage indicates. It’s a little slower than the maximum 217 miles (350 kilometers) per hour that engineers say the train can reach. Perhaps the recent snow means there’s a need for some caution.