One red flag was that Dr. Lance and Mr. Rawski were not registered as climbing partners, did not know each other well and had decided to work together shortly before the summit attempt, Mr. Coombs said. Another was that the pair either did not have rope, or chose not to use it, at crucial moments in the climb, he said.
On May 24, the two attempted the summit and Mr. Rawski showed signs of altitude sickness between 18,600 and 19,200 feet. Dr. Lance left Mr. Rawski with two other climbers they met along the way. That pair abandoned their own summit attempt to aid Mr. Rawski. Dr. Lance continued up the mountain, the complaint said.
Ultimately, he abandoned his solo climb and reunited with the other three as they approached Denali Pass, a key marker on the route. Disaster struck there when Mr. Rawski tumbled down a 1,000-foot length of the slope known as the Autobahn.
Several climbers, including Dr. Lance, reported the fall. Mr. Rawski, who could not be reached for comment, was rescued and evacuated by helicopter.
Dr. Lance then used a satellite communication device to text for assistance for the remaining three climbers, claiming they were stuck without equipment. The Park Service advised him to descend.
Nearly two hours after that first request, Dr. Lance again texted to ask for evacuation, this time adding that the two people he was climbing with were sick with shock and “early hypothermia.”
The two other climbers later told investigators they had never experienced shock or hypothermia during the climb and had spent hours trying to convince Dr. Lance to rope up with them and descend the mountain after Mr. Rawski fell. They said Dr. Lance insisted the group stay put and told them the Park Service was obligated to rescue them because climbers pay a fee to access the mountain.