The federation created a combined scoring system where the finish of each athlete in each discipline was multiplied to create a total score. Someone who finished third in speed, boulder and lead, for example, would have 27 points (3x3x3). An athlete who finished first, third and seventh would have 21 (1x3x7). The system carries mathematical intrigue and produces unpredictable results.
The other major concern for this competition was Tokyo’s summer weather. When the International Federation of Sport Climbing held its world championships in suburban Hachioji in 2019, the event took place in an air-conditioned convention center. Most climbing World Cups are held outdoors in mountain communities, in places like the Rocky Mountains or the Alps, where the relatively cool air is rarely thick with humidity.
But Tokyo Olympic organizers wanted their new event outdoors, and so it was. The only concession was a 5 p.m. start and no direct sun. An evening breeze made things tolerable, but still warm and muggy by climbing standards.
“The biggest worry is definitely not slipping,” Duffy said. “And making sure to hydrate more and chalk up more than I would back in the States.”
The other issue is what the sandpaper-like holds do to fingers, usually hardened with callouses, made soft by the moisture. “It hurts a little bit more with the humidity,” Duffy said.
Speed was the first discipline, a timed race up a 15-meter wall, where the holds are the same for every competition. It is the easy-to-understand, difficult-to-do outlier of sport climbing. Most of those who qualified for the Olympics excel in the other events, and have spent the past year or two learning the sequence of muscle memory and upward momentum required.